The importance of food diversity

Rob Percival - 08 April 2014

Your dinner plate probably doesn’t include goosefoot, hopshoots, vervain, beremeal, medlars, Saltcote Pippin apples or Shetland black potatoes. But it could. These plants were once common British fare, and they grow here still. We simply don’t eat them. Nor do we eat the majority of the 30,000 edible plants growing on the planet today. For the most part, we eat about a dozen.1

We humans are complex creatures; we require between fifty and a hundred different chemical compounds and elements in order to be healthy. While we depend on animal products for a tiny handful of these, the vast majority lie within the roots, shoots and leaves of the thousands of consumable plants that grow around the world. A diet that disregards diversity does so to the detriment of our health.

And to the detriment of global food security

Last week, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) published a landmark report examining the vulnerability of human and natural systems to climate change. The report highlighted a lack of resilience in the global food system, rooted in a radical decline in food diversity.

Fifty crops now deliver 90% of the world’s calories. It’s little more than half a century since several thousand plants would have done so.2  Across the globe our diets are converging at an alarming rate and local foods are slipping out of usage; varieties of sorghum, millets, rye, cassava and yam are in decline, while the big four – wheat, corn, soybean, sunflower – are taking over.

It is not for the benefit of our health or wellbeing that these crops have come to dominate our diet. It’s because conversion of these crops into meat and processed foods is highly profitable; because these raw materials are cheap, and can be broken down, reformulated, packaged, and sold for profit.

But we pay a high price with our health. A study published earlier this year found that as global food diversity declines, and the consumption of meat and processed foods increases, the direct result is a dramatic increase in diet-related disease, in spiralling incidents of diabetes, heart disease and cancer. "Such diseases," the study says, "are becoming epidemics."

The study notes that it is ‘a shared axiom’ of ecology and nutrition that diversity enhances health. And yet global food diversity is in precipitous decline, our collective diet is being diminished and we face an uncertain food future. The good news is it doesn’t have to be like this.

A new paradigm

Earlier this year, the UN Special Rapporteur on the Right to Food, Olivier de Schutter, set out his vision for a ‘new paradigm’: a reformulated global food system in which thriving local networks of agro-ecological farms, such as organic, support thriving local communities. These farms, he said, are fairer, more ecologically friendly, and more sustainable. They also provide for healthier diets – because they are more diverse.3

Diversity lends resilience to a food system. By eating in turn with the seasons and focussing our diet on local variety, by avoiding processed foods and eating less but better meat, and by supporting those farmers who support a rich and varied wildlife, we can all help to bring de Schutter’s vision to reality.

The Dittisham Ploughman Plums, the Kentish cobnuts, the Saltcote Pippin apples, the edible wild plants – the local foods growing near you – have a key role to play in the future of food; its time they found their way back onto our dinner plate.

Rob is Policy Officer for Food & Health at the Soil Association. Follow him on twitter.

References

  1. The Slow Food Foundation Ark of Taste catalogues local foods from around the world that are at risk of extinction. for data on global food consumption, see the FAOSTAT resource  
  2. The study, published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, examines the foods consumed in more than 150 countries over the last half century 
  3. Special Rapporteur on the Right to Food, Final Report to the UN Human Rights Council, 2014 

 

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Comments



Jason
24 October 2014 17:20

Wish we could get or grow organic yams in the UK. I think it would be good to have a product requests section so growers and buyers/wholsalers could get a better idea of what folk would like, peace n hair grease

Iona
16 April 2014 20:29

The Organic Gardening Associationwww.gardenorganic.org.ukhas a "Heritage seed library" which includes lots of varieties of fruit and veg which used to be grown but now rarely are.

Maxi
14 April 2014 17:43

So how do I get hold of plants/seeds to grow plants like these? And growing advice.. Thanks

Charlotte
08 April 2014 18:17

Anyone wanting to do something about this at home would do well to look up Plants For A Future (or PFAF) great publications and database on edible plants. There's so much you can grow locally and organically and many of these alternative edibles aren't attacked by disease/slugs and snails and other such common problems like the mainstream brassicas, lettuces and spinaches are.So while tonight's dinner here won't have them, we do grow Goosefoot, Verbena, a heritage pippin apples and heritage potatoes here in our household in Wimbledon, London and I just last month planted a Kentish Cobnut! We haven't space for Medlars given the height of them but our small garden does have 4 other apple trees, 4 pear trees, 3 plums a cherry and a sharan fruit tree, 2 goji berry bushes, red and black currant, gooseberry, strawberries and a wealth of green leaves and root veg that change with the seasons. We've used permaculture principles together with organic no dig methods to cram a lot in to a small space. The hour a week I spend maintaining it is less than the time I spent previously fighting my way around the supermarket.The point I'm trying make here is don't wait for change. Be the change you want to see. If you love nature, if you love diversity, if you value your health and want live free from chemicals and corporate monopolies, invite what you can in by planting it. We started out with one apple tree and bought a couple more each year. Now we hardly use the supermarkets. It feels wonderful to have such wholesome food, to know our environment is enhanced and to be free from food price inflation. As for Goosefoot appearing in a Tescos near you sometime soon? I wouldn't hold out too much hope...

Liz Percival
08 April 2014 15:33

Interesting that there is increasing interest in this. A restaurant down in Pembrokeshire recently ran an evening based on foraged local plants. It seemed to be well received by those who went along. As I reflected on their experience I realised that for me to eat local gathered foodstuffs it would require confidence that what I was eating was what I thought it was and was edible and that it wasn't contaminated by pesticides or lead etc from local roads. Marketted foods theoretically have government imposed standards to ensure they are safe. Just a thought..

James
08 April 2014 11:08

Interesting read! I guess economies of scale has been the reason behind the loss of variety. It would be good to see some study behind whether this loss of variety is having a detrimental effect on us. Perhaps some of the supermarkets/ restaurants about would want to do a "vegetable of the week" type promotion to encourage some of these valuable plants back into our thinking.

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